17.05.2005: First summit pushs

An American as well as a Korean team started their final ascents despite rather bad weather conditions. They arrived at the South col today and try to summit tomorrow using oxygen. At the moment, it seems that the disaster comes true. Not as we had hoped, i.e. one by one, but in a big crowd within a few days, the teams will try to reach the summit. The simple reason: All traffic lights are red since weeks. But, the way through the icefall will be closed on 1st of June! Therefore, the whole equipment must be at the BC by then - without any exception. This could be a problem, in particular for all commercial expeditions. They cannot let the last days pass at the BC without using even a minor chance. Therefore, they had to go, and they go despite the lights are red.


In order to keep my acclimatization level, I (Olaf) climbed a part of the neighbouring Pumo Ri (7145 m). From there, I had an excellent view on the whole route at Everest.

But what shall we do in order to protect our health and lives and these of our sherpas? The conditions are bad. There will be many people on the route at the same time that will cause delays. But we have no supplementary oxygen, we cannot queue up and wait, we cannot sit the summit push out at camp 3! But shall we give up?


Many teams pack and leave the BC.

One major problem are the vague weather forecasts which cannot be used as an aid for drawing decisions. And there are different opinions within our team. Thomas still want to wait, I would rather start. I know it might be better to wait some days more but there are also cons. First, the Khumbu icefall becomes more and more dangerous as it gets warmer. Secondly, the weather will not improve markedly during the next days, no high-pressure system will come. Thirdly, my horror night at Camp 3 will be in vain because it was one week before - my acclimatization to high altitudes is fading.


Our table in the kitchen tent: searching for soulutions.

But we need to reach a consensus. Therefore, Thomas, Lakpa and me consulted any expedition about their information regarding the weather. Lakpa asked the other sirdars when and with how many people each team intends to start. And what we have heard, all teams have the same problems. Many of them stay even longer at the basecamp than me, 14 days and more since their last ascents.

The most topical weather forecasts from Sweden and Innsbruck predict slightly better conditions around the 23rd of May, whatever slightly better means. If we do not get more precise information we will start our final ascent at 20th of May or the day after.


No reason to be sad, we are still there!